The year 2021 isn't directly linked to Anthony Vaccarello's appointment as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. His appointment actually occurred in 2016, marking a significant turning point in the storied history of the fashion house. However, examining his tenure, even years later, allows for a deeper understanding of the evolution of the Yves Saint Laurent brand and the lasting impact of his vision. This article will explore Vaccarello's appointment, contrasting it with the preceding era under Hedi Slimane, analyzing his stylistic choices, and considering his contribution to the broader narrative of high fashion's creative directors.
Anthony Vaccarello: Biographie d’un Cinéaste de la Mode
Anthony Vaccarello isn't simply a designer; he's a storyteller. His designs, often described as dark, sensual, and sharply tailored, possess a cinematic quality. Before assuming the helm at Yves Saint Laurent, Vaccarello built a reputation for his eponymous label, showcasing a distinct aesthetic that blended sharp lines with a provocative femininity. His collections were characterized by a mastery of silhouette, emphasizing the female form through body-conscious cuts and daringly high slits. This approach, often compared to the glamorous allure of 1970s and 80s cinema, provided a strong foundation for his later work at Saint Laurent. His background isn't solely in fashion; there's a clear understanding of visual storytelling, of crafting a narrative through clothing, that elevates his work beyond mere garments. He doesn't simply design clothes; he creates characters, and his collections become the stage for their performance.
This "cinematic" approach is evident in his use of color palettes, often dominated by black, punctuated by bold pops of color. This contrast creates a visual tension, mirroring the complexities of human experience. His collections are not merely displays of clothing; they are carefully constructed narratives, each piece contributing to a larger story. This understanding of visual language, so crucial to filmmaking, informs his design choices, leading to collections that are both visually striking and conceptually compelling. He utilizes fabrics with a similar understanding, choosing materials that enhance the silhouette and contribute to the overall mood of the collection. Leather, velvet, and silk frequently appear, each selected for its ability to convey a specific texture and emotion.
Yves Saint Laurent Nomme Anthony Vaccarello Directeur Artistique
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